Friday, October 14, 2011

Unterhosen Construction - Part 2

With the extant unterhosen on the screen before me and all of my observations planted in my head, I made a mental pattern for what I needed to do.  Wider in the back, narrowed a bit in the crotch and widen a little in the front -- a bottom heavy hour glass, if you will.

To see how this might work, I took the measurement of my daughter's groin from where the unterhosen would rest around her hips, front to back, then however wide she was going to need them to be across the front (between the hips), across the back and between her legs.  Seemed fairly straight forward and low and behold, a bottom heavy hour glass.  To these measurements I added hem allowances on all four sides to make sure I had enough material.  I always believe in "It's easier to make smaller, than larger." before the material is cut. (Btw, the leftover material from my daughter's hemd worked great for this!)  Ya know, considering it, if you've ever used cloth diapers on a baby, the shape is somewhat similar.


General Fabric Note: For those of you that don't know (and I had to learn the hard way), there's a 'stretchy' direction on fabric, a non-stretchy direction and a really stretchy direction.  If you grab a piece of material that still has the selvage, hold it in your hands so that the selvage is horizontal and give the material a few good tugs.  It shouldn't go anywhere and should be tight.  Don't just do it on the selvage, move a few inches down and with the fabric in the same orientation, give a few more tugs.  It doesn't stretch.  Yet if you turn the fabric 90 degrees and do the same tugging, the fabric stretches, even if only a little bit.  This is the stretchy length of the fabric.  The third direction, where you'd turn the fabric 45 degrees gives you the bias and it's really stretchy this direction.  I've been given to understand that the variations in the fabrics stretchiness is based on the warp and weft.  Without getting too technical, in weaving the warp threads are on the ones on the loom under great tension and the weft are the threads on the wound shuttle that you put through the warped threads.  In the fabric the warp are the threads that run with the selvage or the non-stretchy length and the weft are the others, the slightly stretchy side.  I hope this is more clear than mud. :D

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