tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5577672532207449292024-03-12T23:47:23.808-05:00SCA German Renaissance ResearchI started this blog to organize my information on German Renaissance history more comprehensively so as to provide myself with a better persona. If you'd like to keep track of this blog, the RSS file is http://scagermanrenaissance.blogspot.com/atom.xml Since starting this blog, my research has actually centered on pre-German Renaissance, but only barely. I'm researching roughly 1470s women's clothing and Landsknehct for my husband.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-41396949820669041842007-10-16T08:41:00.007-05:002011-10-10T11:27:06.991-05:00Purse FrameWith my class on learning how to do soapstone/pewter casting, I see the feasibility of doing a purse frame from pewter other than the size. I'm going to try to do a bit more research on whether or not purse frames from period were actually made of pewter or not. I've found bronze and brass at times, but I don't know that I've seen pewter. Go figure, more research.<br />
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<a href="http://www.findsdatabase.org.uk/hms/pas_obj.php?type=finds&id=001416FADEC016AE">Portable Antiques Scheme</a> shows this purse frame that is similar to the one I'm wanting to reproduce, but it lists it as a copper alloy. Pewter, (from what I've gathered thus far) tho it has copper in it for hardening, is not considered a copper alloy. It's mostly (about 85-99%) tin with only a little copper. I obviously could be wrong, it's not really my area of expertise. There's a class on bronze casting (which is a copper alloy) at Vertigo this weekend that I was considering taking.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121949550027981634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffhXQBXMUJDTIZU70MZHTasGCZELo5p9I5q7UtU_D71Q_37Q7dlOpAeTM8TjuZqW-eUinCjQFxMJWbczVUAhgOgbC8ty5F1QdyP5ByeDhStTVmHGmJkF31MNZJ9GtN_SWyxy6bL6miZw/s400/image.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
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The general theme is that they were cast copper alloys. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_alloys">Copper Alloys</a> are generally copper, brass and bronze. Looks like I either find someone who already makes them or learn how to cast a copper alloy purse frame. Fun fun fun!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-54389651036881564702007-10-15T11:00:00.001-05:002011-08-27T10:52:33.483-05:00BeerMy husband put me on a quest of sorts concerning the use of hops in beer. I'm going to take it a step further and research German beer in specfic.<br />
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According to Wikipedia <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_beer">History of Beers</a>, <i>The use of hops</i><i> in beer was written of in 822 by a Carolingian </i><i> Abbot. Again in 1067 by Abbess Hildegard of Bingen</i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hildegard_of_Bingen" title="Hildegard of Bingen"><i></i></a><i>: "If one intends to make beer from oats, it is prepared with hops." ... </i><i>Hopped beer was perfected in the towns of Germany</i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Germany#Middle_Ages" title="History of Germany"><i></i></a><i> by the 13th century, and the longer lasting beer, combined with standardized barrel sizes, allowed for large-scale export. The German towns also pioneered a new scale of operation and a level of professionalization.</i><br />
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<i></i><br />
<a href="http://home.earthlink.net/%7Eggsurplus/hophistory.html">A History of Hops</a> states - "<i>So it was in Germany. In Cologne, brewers who wanted to use hops ran afoul of the archbishop who held the monopolistic rights to gruit. But the hop flourished in spite of such roadblocks, and its preservative quality made the brewing, storing and eventual shipping of the German lager style possible.</i><br />
<i><br />
In Holland in the 1300's, the Dutch developed a taste for hopped German beer from Hamburg, much to the dismay of Dutch brewers of gruit beer. Over the protests, prohibitions and high import duties imposed by the nobility, Dutch drinkers imported hopped beer, then the hops to brew their own."</i><br />
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And <a href="http://www.coopsmaps.com/beer/hops.html">A Short History of Hops</a> says - "<i>The earliest references to hop cultivation are during the 8th and 9th century AD from the Hallertau district in Germany. Although it is not clear whether these hops were used in brewing, by the 14th century the Dutch had developed a taste for hopped German beer. "</i><br />
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<i></i><br />
<a href="http://www.oldworld.ws/okbeerhist.html">German Beer History</a><br />
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It's a beginning at any rate. :D<br />
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For further research a few of the sources are as follows:<br />
<ul><li>A History of Brewing by H.S. Corran (1975)</li>
<li> Brewed in America by Stanley Baron (1972)</li>
<li>One Hundred Years of Brewing, published by The Western Brewer magazine (1903)</li>
<li>The Brewing Industry in England, 1700-1830 by Peter Mathias (1959)</li>
<li>New World Guide to Beer by Michael Jackson (1988)</li>
<li>Wines and Beers of Old New England by Sanborn C. Brown (1978)</li>
</ul>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-82035684001453083112007-10-14T20:40:00.000-05:002007-10-14T20:48:44.639-05:00Clothing Dummy Complete!We actually did it. Using the method for the body on the website I posted in my previous Clothing Dummy post, we constructed the dummy from Duct Tape 2 and created the following:<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121373006503068418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5C8McsSTuPVmQUbcvPzs09D1Z5yec3B4gui6vpr7BV8LlL6t7Udc7kftPZd2LiJvjC_3_MffeHb7a4YV5VZuC08wrIyifQfw3EFtBX8zjBZuCMvnxc8NVmxh3LAwfnza1Jop5dpQZSxA/s400/IMGA0528.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><p>The difference between theirs and ours, rather than make a stand for it (since we didn't exactly have what we needed to make the stand right now), we hung it from the ceiling at the right height using a ceiling hook my husband says is rated to around 60 lbs (dummy is maybe 15lbs atm), a wire hanger (so it won't stretch over time) and the hook from the wooden hanger in the shoulders. For now, it'll do. Now just to make the clothes necessary to make this useful!</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121373010798035730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaDpCJAXOEYIrZuRahs7DotBUdxTtRLG6kQGvUKHOPPaCZ4bjj1UFybtGkJxoDrO-WvvBxMqhhC7yp6sz4NLr9ltzhA1C5jif7Tr6gR_6G7Deln1BqcPk9T5hjBLlxmvV3Ovx5nauP52Q/s400/IMGA0529.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>Wow, a completed project... Who would have thought it possible.</p><p>[Figured I'd post the method we used in case the website ever dies.</p><p><em>Clone Yourself A Fitting Assistant Duct-tape dress form #2 is a little harder, but a closer fit to you<br /></em><a class="link" href="javascript:t00002_pe2()"><em>Duct-tape dress form #2</em></a><br /><a href="javascript:t00002_pe2()"></a><br /><em>(opens in new window)<br /></em><a href="javascript:my_win()"></a><br /><em>Leah Crain, a dressmaker and costumer from Cincinnati, OH, has another take on the duct-tape version of form making. You can find her complete directions, including stand ideas, photos, plus comments and questions from other sewers, on the Internet (</em><a href="http://www.leanna.com/" target="_blank"><em>www.leanna.com</em></a><em>). Leah's forms look remarkably like their prior "inmates."</em></p><p><em>Here are the highlights: You'll start with a similarly underclad wrappee, but Leah suggests cutting off one sleeve from a second T-shirt and basting it onto the first to form a neck cover. Start wrapping under the bust, snugly, then proceed to a "cross-your-heart" taping that goes from one shoulder under the opposite breast then around to the back, to define the bust area. You'll use three layers of tape, with the second arranged vertically, but wrap more snugly than for Joyce's method, and extend the wrapping around the upper arms and onto the neck, always keeping the bust contours well defined. Mark the final layer carefully with plumb lines at center front and center back, around the waist, and carefully establish the proper height and posture by marking the same distance from the floor to the hip level on four sides, then cut the tape shell up the back as usual.</em></p><p><em>A strong wooden hanger placed inside before stuffing is the start of either a hanging form or a simple stand. For a stand, use a piece of PVC piping or a cardboard tube long enough that you can cut it to your height when the form is ready to set onto its base (you can use a Christmas-tree stand on the outside of the tube, or a microphone stand inside the tube). Tape the hanger to the tube and put it inside the form before stuffing it, then start stuffing by supporting each breast with a glued-in foam raglan shoulder pad if the bust contour needs the additional support (larger bust shapes may tend to cave in over time). Tape the opening at center back closed as you complete the stuffing, then use the hip markings to help arrange the form on the tube to match the wrapper's posture.</em></p><p><em>Cut a cardboard base using dimensions from the wrappee, and cut a hole in it so it can slip up the tube, then tape it in place. Stuff and tape over the ends of the sleeves and neck where you want them to end, then compare measurements from wrappee to form. You can adjust the form by cutting slits to form darts, squeezing the form to the new dimension, and retaping</em>.]</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-67106953563788194792007-10-14T18:05:00.000-05:002007-10-14T18:35:30.231-05:00Knife PleatsOkay, I freely admit, tho I can't say I like to, I was overthinking knife pleats. Especially with linen. It's easy to overthink something you have no experience with, so I've been trying all kinds of ways to make it easier or make it faster and realized a little while ago that I was actually making it harder, not easier. At any rate, it's easy to see the threads in linen. Actually, I'm sure it's easy to see the threads in most materials if you try, but that's beside the point.<br /><br />Here's what I'm finding is the easiest way, eyeball the thread I'm trying to follow. I'm not kidding.<br /><br />To make it a step easier, I would trace a line on the material where the ground of the pleat is supposed to be sewn as well as on the peak of the pleat that's supposed to be sewn to it, so I don't lose my threads as easily, but that's for the next row.<br /><br />Needless to say, I thought this method would be the hard way to do this, but it actually isn't. No wonder there haven't really been good instructions for it, because other than sewing them down, there really isn't a method necessary for making them easier. The only thing you need to know is how large to make the folds, but that's pretty easy too. <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/pleats/">Period Pleats</a> shows the folds. See the ground fabric with the folded pleat on top? Simply draw your line where the folded pleat should lay on the ground fabric and draw a line on the point of the folded pleat. Match those two lines and voila, sew them down with a backstitch or something else you prefer right on the top about a 1/16" in. Granted, this method *can* work with a sewing machine, but somehow handstitching feels better to me.<br /><br />It's going to take a little while to get these done, but I think it'll be good by the time it is. Hopefully it's not too small, but as a test piece, I think it'll be okay and I think I can likely take the pleats I'm making now and sew them to a larger piece of material later without much difficulty, so it won't be wasted.<br /><br />Funny how you go through all this stuff to make something easy, only to find the original method was the easiest. I'll post pics when I'm done tho.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-74393479737883593632007-10-14T14:46:00.000-05:002007-10-14T15:17:40.366-05:00Material!We went to JoAnne's today to get a metal yard stick for making my steuchlein pleats even. I suppose that's cheating, but hey, who knows really what they did in period. At any rate, while there, (incidentally, we had to get the metal ruler at Michael's) we found some really nice light weight 100% wool on sale. Suit weight is how they termed it. They had a lovely cream, about 4.5 yards, and a really deep brown, about 7.75 yards. Normally they were 14.99 a yard, but the sale was 40% off, so I bought it all for 8.99 a yard. I haven't, as of yet, been able to find them cheaper online, so hopefully we made a good purchase. :) These will be used for future kleid (or dresses) and hosen since they weren't in colors that would work for my husband's landsknecht unless we overdyed the cream, but that might be a waste... We'll see tho.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-7623624441260987652007-10-14T14:43:00.002-05:002008-06-08T13:37:20.284-05:00Camp BedHere's a camp bed that I think will be reasonable for SCA usage (since that was his point in designing it). Looks to be fairly easy to do, so I'll let my husband work on that one. :D<br /><br /><a href="http://www.mastercharlesoakley.com/bed.html">http://www.mastercharlesoakley.com/bed.html</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-44721571645085680662007-10-14T10:12:00.002-05:002011-09-09T11:22:34.648-05:00RUSH ClassesI didn't post anything yesterday due to the fact that I went to Fall RUSH and participated in a few hands on classes. (For those outside Calontir, RUSH is the Royal University of Scir-Hafoc, or our kingdom's university. They have, or are supposed to have, 4 sessions a year that are strictly RUSH related.)<br />
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The classes I took were as follows:<br />
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Sandstone pewter casting, which was used in period for most of the cultures we study. It can be a challenge for the patient impaired, but it looks pretty nice. I have a great handout on it and a few pieces of soapstone to play with, so it should be all good for bit. When I actually work on some of the things I need, like the bag or decorations for clothing, I'll document what I do through them, but here's at least the beginning.<br />
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Honeycomb Pleats (or Smocking), which was used on many of the landsknecht cuff and clothing. I have an example of a piece I did in the class as well as a link to the handout on <a href="http://www.pleatworkembroidery.com/">Pleat Embroidery</a> website. I'll post more on my progress with it when I use it.<br />
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Carving a Wooden Spoon, which I will work on documenting styles and such that were used in my periods. For now, I have a piece of maple in my possession that isn't quite complete, but I have enough knowledge that I think I can complete it. I still need the tools yet, but we'll work on finding them before the wood completely dries out in about a week (or a month, I forget what he said). As I figure out what I can and can't do with the spoon carving, I'll post my progress.<br />
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At any rate, I did a lot of hand's on work (more than I normally do with classes) and my hands and upper arms aren't happy with me today, but I learned a lot and I'm happy with it. I should be able to pass on some of that information to others once I figure out if I'm doing things right or not. ;)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-91458927598268116722007-10-12T07:17:00.000-05:002007-10-12T07:19:24.934-05:00box.netI found something rather interesting this morning. It's a little thing from box.net (which I hadn't used prior to this), where you're allowed to put a widget on your blog for making files available. I've put it up there with a bunch of the files I've collected over the last few months. Now they should be more readily available and easily accessible to remind me of the research I'm working on. I think it's rather spiffy to be frank.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-92151748313619844592007-10-11T14:39:00.000-05:002013-07-23T08:40:26.537-05:00Silk Screen Printing, Silk PaintingSimply as a way to catalog for myself what *isn't* period for me, so I don't attempt to do the research more than once, I'm going to make a list of things that are "Not Period".<br />
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1) Silk Screen Printing - Isn't period for 15th-16th century Germany. In fact, according to <a href="http://filebox.vt.edu/users/ahudson/hudson.wbp/html/SPpaper.html">The History of Screen Printing</a>, screen printing was completely out of period for all but perhaps Oriental persona. (This one cropped up from looking at woodcut printed t-shirts. Our minds run in weird veins sometimes.)<br />
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2) Silk Painting - Painting on silk using resists, such as wax and gutta, are not period for anyone in the SCA unless they are doing either a persona from India or China. Apparently silk painting didn't actually hit the European shores until the time of the Bolshevik's or the early 1900s. <a href="http://www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/17813/328/">Introduction to Silk Painting</a> (This one cropped up, because of the drive to paint silk banners in our local area. It made me curious how period it might be.)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-27832468562955947782007-10-11T13:54:00.001-05:002007-10-11T14:08:25.628-05:00Playing CardsMost of my information for this research was done at home and I, unfortunately, am at work at present time (bad me), but I wanted to remind myself to put the research up here, so here's my reminder! So as not to make this post totally useless...<br /><br /><a href="http://www.historicgames.com/gamemakers/cardmaking.html">History of Playing Card Printing</a><br /><br />Also, I have an article entitled "The 'Stuttgarter Kartenspiel': Scientific Examination of the Pigments and Paint Layers of Medieval Playing Cards", which is very very excellent and very detailed. It is a study in conservation of a 1430 German pack of cards. With it, I'm going to attempt, at some point, to create a set of playing cards myself. :D If anyone would like a copy of the article, let me know and I'll send it to them. Just leave a comment to that effect and I'll be more than happy to pass it along. Share the information!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-75073409396236000542007-10-11T13:50:00.001-05:002007-10-11T13:52:41.556-05:00Arabic NumeralsI was searching for something else and ran across this article. I'll read it in more detail later, but it deals with the number theory at the time of my research as well as woodcuts and playing cards, tho only in passing.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.geocities.com/rmlyra/arabic.html">Hindu Arabic Numeric Medieval Ideograms</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-67896633377168392052007-10-11T13:21:00.000-05:002007-10-11T13:46:37.704-05:00Woodcuts 2Another site <a href="http://www.jeaneger.com/">http://www.jeaneger.com/</a> suggested using pine plywood as a beginner wood. Sounds reasonable to me. It's fairly cheap, soft and disposable. Tho using plywood over regular wood has me a bit baffled, but I've never done this before, so what do I know.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.sharecom.ca/phillips/technique.html">The Technique of the Color Woodcut</a> Now this one is interesting, because it takes things a step further into detail. It gives some of the pros and cons to various woods as well as picture representations of some of the carving tools that can be used (which is good for those of us who have *never* carved a thing in our lives). This page is mostly Japanese woodcutting, but the principles and information is still quite valid.<br /><br />This is a great collection of online jpg woodcuts. The only drawback for me is the fact that I don't know which are actually German. <a href="http://www.godecookery.com/clipart/clart.htm">Medieval Woodcuts Clipart Collection</a><br /><br /><br />One of the interesting things about this method is that it was used for making playing cards. Generally, you'd make a woodcut of the whole deck, then use stencils to color them in. I still want to try this some time. Which reminds me, I never did put that research on here. SheeshUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-62175321553919125782007-10-11T09:18:00.001-05:002007-10-11T13:21:06.336-05:00WoodcutsWoodcuts are an interesting practice. Not to say I have the skill to do them myself, but they are a relatively interesting source of information on the period I'm studying. With this in mind, I've been doing some woodcut searches the last few days and here's what I've found thus far.<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5120085748969882354" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6uHGRX7ZLU-cTFbLjjmhfwPYv50LQV_lxELayAK58TXEprlfa4yG8lSFdSyUKo20bKG5dGt82demOuQX_MEKo04tNYN0qMqlT2Zr5rNBvNcvVN5aGOKNKOMIlY1n4aUs2-P3B1bsDE8g/s400/woodct_early_demo_lg.jpg" border="0" />I find this one rather interesting. It's a 16th century woodcut on the process of making woodcuts. :D</p><p><a href="http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/heavenlycraft/heavenly-15th.html">Fifteenth Century: A Heavenly Craft - The Woodcut in Early Printed Books</a> gives a nice overview of the history of German woodcuts.</p><p><a href="http://www.1000woodcuts.com/Studionotes/history.html">A Brief History of the Woodcut</a> </p><p>I found someone else's blog that show's a decent 'how to', <a href="http://ubatuberproductions.blogspot.com/2006/05/woodcut-how-to.html">A Woodcut How To</a> that I have decided to copy here. For some reason, carving and such have been interesting to me recently, but I don't know that I have the skill to do them myself. I guess I'll find out somewhat after this weekend. We have Fall RUSH this weekend and I'm wanting to go to Ferd's soapstone/pewter classes. We'll see what comes of them. :) At any rate, here's the transcription without pictures.</p><p><em>I spent last night and this morning working on a woodcut of Jenny, rediscovered the sheer joy of printmaking and decided to post a how-to in case anyone is interested in trying one on their own. This here Jenny is 5x7", an edition of 12, some of which will be mailed out to unsuspecting victims this week (or as soon as I can get to the post office). Normally printmaking requires a press...lithography, acid-etching, even linoleum usually needs to be run through a press to transfer ink from your plate to your page, but with a woodcut, all you need is a wooden spoon and some elbow grease. It can get complicated for some people, because it is a reductive process, but I prefer to work reductively (especially with charcoal...I usually cover the page black, then erase away the image).</em><a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"></a><br /><em>First let's talk supplies. You'll need wood (nothing too hard or you'll wear yourself out carving), paper (any kind really, though Japanese papers or rice papers work best), a tear-bar for tearing your paper, ink (which comes water-based and oil-based), a brayer (basically a rubber rolling pin), a flat surface to roll out ink (glass or plexi is best because it won't absorb the ink as you are working), and some carving tools.I'm discussing a one-color print here, doing multiple colors is much more complicated, I'll explain at the end. Start off by drawing the image onto your wood plate. Keep in mind that carving is easiest if you go WITH the grain of the wood. You can draw in graphite but the graphite marks will sometimes transfer to your paper when you print, so it is best to use a sharpie or permanent marker to draw your image, and will be easier to see that way...I usually draw in graphite then go over with a marker...also keep in mind that the image when printed will be a mirror reflection of the plate, so lettering, etc. needs to be drawn backwards. Check the composition of your image by holding the plate up to a mirror, then if you're satisfied, start carving away the negative space. I chose a fairly soft wood, so I was able to use my dremel with a very small drill bit to outline the hair and carve away the smallest details in Jenny, then used wood-carving tools on the rest of the plate. </em><a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"></a><br /><em>Once the plate is carved its time to print. Prepare your paper, you usually want a border around the image, with about twice as much space at the bottom of the page so the image can 'breathe' a bit. Figure out what size each piece of paper should be...here my plate is 5x7", so my paper is about 7x8.5", Rives BFK, leftover scraps that I had sitting around. Don't CUT the paper to the size you want, TEAR it so that you have a sort of fuzzy edge...most fine drawing papers have fuzzy edges, and its a nicer presentation if the rest of the edges are similar. I don't have a tear-bar (a large metal bar with a beveled edge) so I used a T-square...mark your paper where it will be torn, line up the bar, and tear the piece quickly, one swift whoosh. </em><a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"></a><br /><em>Now you're ready...squeeze a small amount of ink out onto your rolling surface. I used a water-soluble black Speedball ink here, just slightly more viscous than acrylic paint. Use the brayer to spread out the ink, like rolling out dough for a pizza, until the brayer is evenly coated, then roll the ink onto your plate, not too thick...you will need to print a couple of APs (artist proofs) because the wood plate will absorb much of the ink on the first few prints, and your image will be light. You can also use the AP to make sure everything is carved the way you want it. Here's a comparison between my AP and the final print of the series... </em><a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"></a><br /><em>After you roll the ink onto your wood, place a piece of your paper on top of it. You can register the paper to make sure it is lined up properly, and will have to if you are doing multiple colors, but here I just sort of eyed it up. Press the paper down a bit with the palm of your hand, then take the wooden spoon and start rubbing, putting as much pressure on the spoon as you can handle.<br /></em><a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"></a><br /><em>I usually get all of the edges and corners first, then rub horizontally across, then vertically, then diagonally, to make sure that I have rubbed the whole plate. Then peel off the paper, and Voila! Your first print. Keep doing this for each piece...the more you print the less ink you will need toward the end, because the plate will hold a lot of ink.<br />Technically I could do another run off of this plate (I won't) because it is one color. For multiple colors, it gets a little complicated. Here is an example of a three-color woodcut that I did of my Grandmother when she was ill.<br /></em><br /><em>First I carved away only what I wanted to remain white, the white of the page. Then rolled the block in yellow and printed 10 copies. Then I carved away wherever I wanted the yellow to show, rolled the plate in light green, and printed again, directly on top of the previous color drop (which is where registering the paper comes in, to make sure you place the page in the same spot)...then I carved away what would stay lt. green, rolled the plate with dark green, and did the final color drop. The cool thing here is that once you're done, that's it. You can never print the plate again in the same way because of the in-between carving, unless you do each color on a separate plate, which is even more complicated, because then not only do you have to line up the paper properly, but you have to make sure that the image is in the same place on each plate.<br />My next Jenny print :) will be multiple colors...<br />Hope you learned something useful...with stop-motion, I am such an information leech that its nice to feel like I'm giving something back for a change...</em></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-66472849546827191732007-10-09T14:50:00.001-05:002007-10-22T13:31:03.759-05:00Trestle Table AddendumThe table I was viewing was erroneously referred to as a trestle table by me. Apparently the pseudonym 'trestle' was not adopted for that type of table until 1910. So I'll have to find another name for that type of breakdown table. Perhaps it doesn't have a specific name, but it appears to have been used for armoring tables, as well as at tents and campsites. (thus far anyway) For now, I've changed it in my projects list to a 'table' until I can find something more specific.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-642096091744718452007-10-09T07:31:00.001-05:002011-09-21T15:50:03.399-05:00Trestle TableI have found these trestle tables in more than one drawing, but I'm afraid I'm unable to find them at present time. I'll do more research and find period art containing these tables. At any rate, this will make for a good period table.<br />
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http://www.medievalwood.org/charles/PeriodTable.htm - [This link is currently broken, but I did find the page at the <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20080113180919/http://www.medievalwood.org/charles/PeriodTable.htm">Wayback Machine</a>.]<br />
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[Picture added later, but I don't know if this could be utilized for German or not, but it's from a 15th century manuscripted entitled <i>How a Man Schall be Armyd at his ese when he schal fighte on foote. </i>The title alone leads me to believe it's not German, but I did find a German piece that is unfortunately in a PDF file that I need to find elsewhere. It's entitled Three Apes Building a Trestle Table, 1480-1500 German, stained glass from The Cloisters Collection]<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119318010680820450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJnxqiPYgHw5pzbVxQFMROdHV8OO_HXsmZjt6jD0OT1dERUgWyoMlIDBfEcBUZDIONNUjW_8rE7rhAuqOolZY0JxxjH9Z0-9yYubUJsqjRrK32H6m9An3DwSEmWPqqT-AdmMzEP4aYaM/s400/armyd.gif" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-77666524682254573942007-10-08T16:07:00.002-05:002011-10-05T13:18:21.858-05:00Fuddling CupNow this is a very interesting piece. It's what's called a fuddling cup, which was anywhere from 3 - 6 small cups joined together at the handles (and with holes between them) that allowed a person to drink everything from each cup, only using the one. Sometimes they were referred to as puzzle cups, because some of them were designed in such a way that you could only successfully drink from them without spilling if you drank in a secific order.<br />
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Accession number: 24861<br />
Production place: Raeren, Germany<br />
Collection place: Fish Street Hill [City of London] [Oct 1929]<br />
Production date: 1481-1610<br />
Material: ceramic; stonewareMeasurements: H 80 mm; W 80 mm<br />
Museum Section: Post-Medieval<br />
Summary: Incomplete Raeren stoneware fuddling cup (also known as a tripartite jug).<br />
Location: Object stored at Mortimer Wheeler House (Ceramics and Glass store)<br />
Category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/category.asp?cat_id=714">Stonewares</a>.<br />
Sub-category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715">German</a>.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119076229791859394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsisegUwnlSArfkc6oik_g8Ml9Z0e64c3r4Q9JwIqpcYSEGIyP7QmfLoylPoEoWW8eDUVgqYiUu2p_zFGjbtv-DMrTsQo0LejSCLwpu-__0eGr9qXghvjDaGutHjNKXtL3nMQ-efNzZ8/s400/24861.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
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Accession number: A3911<br />
Production place: Raeren, Germany<br />
Collection place: Town ditch, Newgate Street, City of London<br />
Production date: 1475-1525<br />
Material: ceramic; stoneware<br />
Measurements: H 80 mm (including reconstruction)<br />
Museum Section: Post-Medieval<br />
Summary: Restored Raeren stoneware miniature tripartite jug or fuddling cup. Each vessel joined at the centre; with thumbed bases and funnel-necks (restored); one loop-handle. Each vessel decorated on shoulder with faces comprising applied and stabbed features. Dark grey stoneware with patchy grey-brown surface under thin ash-glaze.<br />
Location: Not currently on display. For information contact the Museum.<br />
Category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/category.asp?cat_id=714">Stonewares</a>.<br />
Sub-category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715">German</a>.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119079725895238354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzjDvb6jufrJhaQeBhXPa_jEtk1L3rTHb6-596DyOtJDCKO45TOeupVFKJihlVhgjHd84bgcKc5lToF84YTro-04ZdwULv1sQS_Z8Kjdels7L0nh2DbwVHJDPDp3fu1bR5HuSqBIzv1Y/s400/A3911.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
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More research on fuddling cups:<br />
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<a href="http://www.nicks.com.au/index.aspx?link_id=76.672">Vintage Direct</a><br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuddling_cup">Wikipedia - Fuddling Cup</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-28450696754489472902007-10-08T16:00:00.002-05:002011-10-05T13:19:36.580-05:00Drinking JugThe next few posts are going to be on various pottery tableware that I've found at the Museum of London under the German subcategory.<br />
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<a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715&subcat_name=German">http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715&subcat_name=German</a><br />
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Accession number: 25989<br />
Production place: Raeren, Germany<br />
Collection place: unknown<br />
Production date: 1481-1610<br />
Material: ceramic; stoneware<br />
Measurements: H 138 mm; DM (base) 86 mm<br />
Museum Section: Post-Medieval<br />
Summary: Near-complete Raeren stoneware biconical drinking mug [Dove collection no E43]<br />
Location: Object stored at Mortimer Wheeler House (Ceramics and Glass store)<br />
Category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/category.asp?cat_id=714">Stonewares</a>.<br />
Sub-category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715">German</a>.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119074481740169906" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSm02ke5DHIMnqv40SOeo30IA3QKaBTWR9VPV2l09rPlIH20aNWX97g67zzXXLZiwxXC_XszKeuiV0Tloyv3RNAjfVPabE-Q9xU_7gJ_yR0RIHG6g9BXmcPzm3s5bR4qS6MdT032F9Zw/s400/25989.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-64041378356918617262007-10-08T15:56:00.002-05:002011-10-05T13:20:59.477-05:00BottleThe next few posts are going to be on various pottery tableware that I've found at the Museum of London under the German subcategory.<br />
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<a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715&subcat_name=German">http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715&subcat_name=German</a><br />
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Accession number: P480<br />
Production place: Raeren?, Germany<br />
Collection place: unknown<br />
Production date: 1480-1610<br />
Material: ceramic; stoneware<br />
Measurements: H 100 mm<br />
Museum Section: Post-Medieval<br />
Summary: Raeren? stoneware bottle with globular body and two lug holes on the shoulders. With an iron wash and ash-glaze.<br />
Location: Object stored at Mortimer Wheeler House (Ceramics and Glass store)Category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/category.asp?cat_id=714">Stonewares</a>.<br />
Sub-category: <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ceramics/pages/subcategory.asp?subcat_id=715">German</a>.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119073287739261602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xGeswJNNStj1FdYXq9xDZEHtAyEgi-Wic1p89_03GjgkyiBucTAzbPzhG5Rf0bT3NFysBRQ-4D9Ye_Bv9PfP2iKEwbougyf93045eSvnA1oEXIxU66n7UNpGAhk_BO0Ij1Ik66_D0Kg/s400/P480.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-40810359960159660992007-10-08T14:59:00.002-05:002011-10-05T13:21:34.421-05:00Salt Glazing<div>While looking through the various candlesticks and tableware I could find, there was a reference to 'salt glazing'. I'd never heard of it before, but then my knowledge is decidedly limited to say the least. At any rate, it was a technique that was apparently derived in the Rhineland of Germany roughly in the 14th century used on earthenware and later on stoneware up through the 17th century.<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_glaze_pottery">Wikipedia - Salt Glaze Pottery</a></div><br />
<div></div><div>According to <a href="http://www.thepotteries.org/types/salt_glaze.htm">http://www.thepotteries.org/types/salt_glaze.htm</a> - </div><br />
<div></div><div>Salt glaze, in ceramics, a glaze having the texture of orange peel, formed on stoneware by throwing common salt into the kiln at the peak temperature. Sodium from the salt combines with silica in the clay to form a glassy coating of sodium silicate. </div><br />
<div></div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119062623335465618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfkrh9fsRu2OMBZqhOakHZIoV7CRq7b1Jt1a3rdjOmOB3QxyG-oPyRlDH7d1Ez0lFT2LuvznH3ZvhTA4QrEq7OTdG5_mnANTNmGvcpe45EngWJ94_-rZhxHdnSMnmH911tTo7NBdAhvCg/s400/salt_syrup.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div>This is an image of a salt-glazed syrup container. It's not a period piece, but I was trying to find an image of what salt-glazing looks like. The detail on the bottom shows a bit more what the texture looks like, but I'd prefer to touch one at some point. Another project I suppose.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-54796684246849511502007-10-08T14:45:00.002-05:002011-09-09T11:21:52.534-05:00Socket CandlesticksThese were listed as German socket candlesticks 15th-16th century.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119055373430669954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrk4blf8FaW6G2y-OSOEwkqdPobBCdQtKn5cP9BMXDyEPEdpqHS6D1J2KGgDTdv2pEGBsHGeqtC0qm9sMKTXQOCe0XZmsHCxrXYVEhjinwp7NKjsZZEoFtIqtikpsi83BmK5EyKkRsoPY/s400/MI07837g06a.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-68830843840968383952007-10-08T14:41:00.002-05:002011-09-09T11:23:19.321-05:00Pricket CandlesticksI'm not sure at this time what pricket candlesticks are, but here is an example of a set from 15th century Germany.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119053518004798066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IIMw4XEGMTc8tytLTTdB1CJw7SidVepWYDcMUk_mppbFbVcfJnIpKSajtBQdoQ_U6Z-kmEYE0xPrZW_1q2VBw_h-a_A54Jpkr3Z5th9EY4iE8R1Y5pOTqTx8gt4fPaxVhNJPmCFyQcw/s400/MI01629d03a.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-20396218453537720002007-10-08T14:36:00.001-05:002011-09-09T11:23:51.696-05:00Candlesticks14th to 15th century zoomorphic candlestick. I think this one is pretty neat.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119052259579380322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg05E7NEa1jbOsw8RL_YH7ECK2IoOZraOaHHqrj7awbBboXeH4WmQsu0whKdmj8XxvACmjYSLhJp8wMwZHRGz_n177eWP-t79WqNmXBZey6imijyg6XH6MJZXUr1h1YNTJ5wVER82XQpa4/s400/228670587_547939cb68.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-73896170263370239902007-10-08T14:31:00.002-05:002011-09-09T11:25:46.530-05:00Candlesticks Part 4 - LandsknechtLandsknecht 16th century made of brass<br />
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<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07837g09a.jpg">http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07837g09a.jpg</a><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119051301801673298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_ovOXtzknUXNKs4vePS6TO7xSDsgOwecoHneIWLpTqujb_gJetVnIm2jGqUAp6ZyRhi8U3oHpXrsl_RjmWbKDFP_b_hoBXdKel05g4s69oIQlx7tzxMp7ndnFF1qZ1Id7axsMHT91VU/s400/MI07837g09a.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-9641699566833137772007-10-08T14:23:00.001-05:002011-09-09T11:25:21.111-05:00Candlesticks the Third16th century armored man made of bronze.<br />
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<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01624c12a.jpg">http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01624c12a.jpg</a><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119049579519787586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiulBUjLb9KBaBjXEqnRd8oARxZfLJQE0BgUEHmVk9k51XX3VTz-uyrR0lDCw1bsWCIRsOefk9KdKcU3xmo9j_U5XrWea4r542lx4gxszHZdWRFcXBYKkFGPPoh-lIWc9HxLf2qMCqZS_E/s400/MI01624c12a.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-557767253220744929.post-26477134631351133232007-10-08T14:20:00.001-05:002011-09-09T11:26:12.578-05:00More CandlesticksWhen it rains, it pours. More candlesticks :D This one is from 16th century Nuremburg made of bronze.<br />
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<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01624c07a.jpg">http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01624c07a.jpg</a><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119048510072930866" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2YyZSRnV9ttvZpqIXirzJVg6RF2qHRGxOda9o__fDcXaJ65ZuyNqp27dS9QU5iTo_MmuroaHX01TXvg6RurWR3Lthf6wGIAuudZZQPrdjMleVxLZe6L3oqkirWj_M6iJfReM_3qQDWM/s400/MI01624c07a.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0