Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Projects and Understanding

Because very little of what we do is "standard" (there are many periods of time and many cultures to choose from), it feels difficult to get the information necessary to create the 'kit' you'd likely have worn for your chosen period/culture. What also goes with that "standard" is the difficulty of having the same generation information they would have had during period. In the modern times, we have certain knowledges that we take for granted which we tend to pass down to the next generation just as the previous generations passed information down to us. That's not to say the information is never written down, it's simply to say that having a family member or close friend teach you one thing is a lot different compared to finding the information about a previous generation or two on your own. The learning curve is different. Though I know there are people out there that likely have the information I'm seeking, we're far enough apart in our connections to make it difficult to do things up properly or as they would have been done at one time.

After all of the previous, I have determined that I need to set-up a 'project' list as I figure out all the various things I likely need as well as continue them in a sort of diary mind-set to pass on the information I find as I go. Many others have done this and I know that from reading what they've written, it will not be easy to get the same information passed on to anyone else in a clearer manner myself, but I will make attempts now and then.

Therefore, let's start with what I'm working on now. I'm working on what I've been able to determine is called a 'steuchlein'. It's the veil that goes over the wulsthaube (or wulst). They come in various styles from what I can tell, but my goal is for something like the following:
Aristotle and Phyllis by Master of the Housebook c1485
including the pleats on the front and the extra material that another lady indicates is a separate piece of material tucked into the steuchlein creating the long piece of material hanging over her right shoulder. <http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/schilling-headdress2.html> I don't know if I agree with her initial construction of the steuchlein, but it does look really nice.
What I would ultimately like to do is recreate that outfit in its entirety. Therefore, we have
1) the steuchlein
2) wulsthaube, since she's likely wearing a wulst under the steuchlein
3) a schaub, the overcoat of sorts
4) a kleid (dress/clothing or kirtle which appears to be the term being used) including the pleats that are over the tummy and in the same place on the back. One lady has called them 'pregnancy pleats' which makes a lot of sense
5) a hemd (shirt, chemise, smock, etc)
6) the gurtil (belt) around her waist that holds bags or can simply be decorative
7) There is something around her neck that is indeterminate, but it's been in a few of the images that I have found. It could be attached to the hemd, which seems quite possible, as well as it could be a completely separate piece. I have found one image where that decorative piece around her neck is shown 'outside' the dress, not from under it, which others show. Therefore, that one seems to show that it may not have been a solid piece with the hemd, but I am way too early in research to determine something like that.
8) the fringe, though she doesn't sport the typical fringe worn with this style, I'm going to make one to go with everyday wear anyway. Normally it's worn at the back of the head likely to cover any loose hairs that are at the nape of the neck. If I find out the significance, I'll mention it. This fringe is also worn without the steuchlein and wulsthaube.
9) hose (not shown here)
10) poulaines [not shown here] (or shoes), their rather pointy toed shoes that ride just below the ankle.
11) pattens, wooden platforms for the poulaines, a way to keep them out of mud and provide a level of support
12) unterhosen, yes, I've seen them in period pieces from the 15th century, rare though they might be, so I'm making some, cause it would simply be weird not to. <http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/schilling-undies.html>
13) a bag of some sort to carry things
14) thimble
15) garters

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