Coronation Clothing - 12th-13th century

First things first, I found a general site on sumptuary which I've already posted to my Ireland Research...
[http://scaireland.blogspot.com/2007/02/sumptuary-beginning.html]

Next, while searching for Irish Sumptuary, I found the following link to the Insignia of the Holy Roman Empire that I thought was really cool.




From what I've determined, the above pic is supposed to have been the sleeve cuff of Roger II's coronation dalmatic, which was one of the 12th century rulers. The pic to the right is the coronation mantle Roger II supposedly wore. The detail alone is simply amazing and from what I've gathered, this heavy red color is the "royal purple" of this age. The site has a lot more detail than I'm going to put here, but suffice to say this pieces is red silk with gold couching.

This last picture is a close-up detail of the mantle. It makes you wonder how many people were working on this pieces and how long it took them to produce it considering the gold couching covered vitually the entire piece and it was simply used for his coronation. Could you see going to that much work for something that was only to be worn once? Or am I simply assuming that because it was for his coronation, he never wore it again. Might be an interesting avenue of research.

At this site there are more pictures of the various aspects to his coronation clothing right down to his shoes and gloves. [http://rubens.anu.edu.au/raider4/austria/vienna/museums/schatzkammer/palermo_robes_12thc/]

Part of the first site shows various stitches which were used and their definitions (or why they were used) [http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_stitches.html]

This next picture is of Frederick II's coronation gloves from 1220. What I find most interesting about these is that the pearls used weren't all perfect. They were mishapen and unusual and imperfect. It's more the fact that they were pearls, not that they had the perfect round shape that we seem to crave today.

Sumptuary Revisited, Sorta

I decided to take a step back and go at this part of the project from another direction [James and the Giant Peach comes to mind...].

Dictionary.com has this to say about 'sumptuary'...

sump·tu·ary
–adjective
1. pertaining to, dealing with, or regulating expense or expenditure.
2. intended to regulate personal habits on moral or religious grounds.
[Origin: 1590–1600; <>

[Unfortunately there was a whole section of writing here, but I'm too tired to remember what it all was, but it was concerning Maximilian I, the Holy Roman Emperor who organized the Landsknechts and my thought process which got me to the pictures below.]

This is a picture of the Holy Roman Empire circa 1630. I didn't realize the HRE encompassed so much space at that time.







Doing a little more searching, I found a picture of the Imperial Circle Estates that the Holy Roman Empire was segregated into with the Reichsreform in 1495. Pretty spiffy if you ask me, but not *quite* on point.

Though these searches produced interesting information, I'm still no closer to what the original intent of this post was.
Just as I'm getting ready to give up, I find an English translation of The Golden Bull of the Emperor Charles IV 1356AD, [http://www.yale.edu/lawweb/avalon/medieval/golden.htm] which I will need to read and study in more detail later, but it's at least a translation of laws from that time.
One last link in case the computer crashes in the middle of the night... [http://www.florilegium.org/files/CLOTHING/smptuary-laws-lnks.html]
(It always figures, when I get tired and it's time to go to bed, THAT's when I find the information that I'm wanting) More links
[http://www.tyler-adam.com/139.html] Miscellaneous tidbits, but it led to the next link.
[http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/lutheranism/87577/1] An article concerning the Augsburg Confession @ the Diet of Augsburg [http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/lutheranism/86696]
[http://users.frii.com/gosplow/augsburg.html] The Augsburg Confession (completely, I hope) and this next is touted as the Unaltered Augsburg Confession [http://www.lmsusa.org/augsburg.htm]

Sumptuary

In an effort to search for the sumptuary laws governing the Germanic aspects of Medieval Europe, I have run across another "institution only" website containing journals that would hopefully have information I could utilize. Project Muse appears to be accessible through the University of Kansas and the piece which I'm attempting to read is Jaritz, Gerhard "Ira Dei, Material Culture, and Behavior in the Late Middle Ages: Evidence from German-speaking Europe" Essays in Medieval Studies - Volume 18, 2001, pp. 53-66 West Virginia University Press. Maybe I can find someone there that can acquire this information for me. This is a little frustrating tho.

Fashion, Sumptuary Laws, and Business, Herman Freudenberger, The Business History Review, Vol. 37, No. 1/2, Special Illustrated Fashion Issue (Spring - Summer, 1963), pp. 37-48doi:10.2307/3112091 [JSTOR]

I'll do more research on sumptuary laws later, but I wanted to get this down before I lost track of it. All these "journals" online at expensive prices are a pain in the neck.